{"id":1234,"date":"2011-09-12T18:22:04","date_gmt":"2011-09-12T15:22:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wineops.wordpress.com\/?p=1234"},"modified":"2011-09-12T18:22:04","modified_gmt":"2011-09-12T15:22:04","slug":"coups-de-coeur-de-lete-chablis-1er-cru-butteaux-1998-by-domaine-raveneau-fance-chablis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1234","title":{"rendered":"Coups de Coeur de l’\u00e9t\u00e9 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998 by Domaine Raveneau (Fance, Chablis)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voici donc un des coups de coeur de l’\u00e9t\u00e9, un vin formidable : le Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998 de Raveneau<\/strong><\/em>. Vous me direz, pourquoi pas un Grand Cru ? c’est les Grands Crus de Raveneau \u00e0 maturit\u00e9 ne sont pas faciles \u00e0 trouver, m\u00eame dans un restaurant en Finlande (pourtant sp\u00e9cialiste de la chose). Ainsi, il faut donc aller en Finlande pour trouver ce vin, tout comme de nombreuses perles impossibles \u00e0 go\u00fbter en France, ou juste inaccessibles (Ech\u00e9zaux Grand Cru de la DRC ou Clos Saint-Jacques de Armand Rousseau, par exemple).<\/p>\n

A ce sujet, je me permets une petite digression (l’habitude des billets \u00ab\u00a0coup de coeur\u00a0\u00bb, il semblerait). La Finlande est un pays privil\u00e9gi\u00e9 si vous voulez d\u00e9couvrir de tr\u00e8s grands vins en restauration, souvent \u00e0 maturit\u00e9, \u00e0 des tarifs raisonnables. Les raisons en sont multiples. La premi\u00e8re, le niveau des restaurant gastronomique, au sens large, finlandais est particuli\u00e8rement \u00e9lev\u00e9 (tant en cuisine que service et verrerie… je n’en dirai pas autant de la France). Ensuite, la Finlande est un petit march\u00e9 \u00e0 fort pouvoir d’achat, sur lequel la plupart des domaines de r\u00e9f\u00e9rence est pr\u00e9sent, par souci de d\u00e9veloppement d’image (donc souvent avec un tarif serr\u00e9, d\u00fb \u00e0 l’approvisionnement direct – alors que ces vins sont souvent issus du march\u00e9 gris en France). La restauration y est certes excellente, mais les Finlandais ne sont pas pr\u00eats \u00e0 acheter des vins \u00e0 un tarif exorbitant, ce qui impose soit des tous petits vins avec un fort coefficient, soit de grands vins \u00ab\u00a0brad\u00e9s\u00a0\u00bb. M’est d’avis, par exemple, qu’un Clos Rougeard Br\u00e9z\u00e9 2006 \u00e0 80\u20ac en restauration est un prix des plus raisonnables.<\/p>\n

C’est donc en Finlande que j’ai d\u00e9couvert ce Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998<\/strong><\/em>. L’anecdote du lieu va plus loin car, chose \u00e9trange, l’ar\u00f4me qui m’a frapp\u00e9 au nez n’est autre que ce rare fruit \u00ab\u00a0lakka\u00a0\u00bb, que j’illustre. \u00a0C’est l\u00e0 quelque chose d’inattendu tant ce fruit est typique de la Finlande.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Son parfum et son go\u00fbt particuliers ne\u00a0me sont jamais apparus dans un vin comme dans celui-ci. Le d\u00e9crire n’est pas ais\u00e9. C’est une sorte de mixte entre l’abricot tr\u00e8s m\u00fbr, le miel, la r\u00e9sine, la groseille (pour l’acidit\u00e9) et puis quelque chose de l’orange. A ce nez magnifique, vous pourrez ajouter le citron, l’abricot et l’iode. Pour moi, c’est un nez emprunt de min\u00e9ralit\u00e9, m\u00eame si d’aucuns se chagrinent de l’usage de ce qualificatif. En bouche, le vin est droit, pur, min\u00e9ral. On retrouve les dominantes fruit\u00e9s. C’est magnifique et l’on sent, tr\u00e8s nettement, que ce vin n’est qu’\u00e0 l’aube de sa vie. Quelle bonheur cependant d’avoir pu go\u00fbter un vin du domaine Raveneau d\u00e9j\u00e0 suffisamment ouvert.<\/p>\n

Pourquoi il restera ? Je pense que cette inattendue aromatique finlandaise y est pour beaucoup. Sans doute est-ce une partie de la magie du vin que de savoir capter des ar\u00f4mes inconnus au vigneron m\u00eame qui l’a accouch\u00e9. Sans doute est-ce une partie de sa force que d’\u00eatre \u00e0 ce point universel !<\/p>\n

Wineops’ : 92\/100<\/span> ; 10 ++<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Domaine Raveneau, Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998<\/p><\/div>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voici donc un des coups de coeur de l’\u00e9t\u00e9, un vin formidable : le Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998 de<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1248,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[9,85,75],"tags":[433,434,435],"yoast_head":"\nCoups de Coeur de l'\u00e9t\u00e9 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998 by Domaine Raveneau (Fance, Chablis) - Wineops<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1234\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Coups de Coeur de l'\u00e9t\u00e9 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 1998 by Domaine Raveneau (Fance, Chablis) - 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