{"id":1044,"date":"2011-03-08T10:37:26","date_gmt":"2011-03-08T08:37:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wineops.wordpress.com\/?p=1044"},"modified":"2011-03-08T10:37:26","modified_gmt":"2011-03-08T08:37:26","slug":"mustango-2009","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1044","title":{"rendered":"Mustango 2009 by La Nouvelle Don(n)e (France, Roussillon)"},"content":{"rendered":"

La Nouvelle Don(n)e <\/strong><\/em>a \u00e9t\u00e9 fond\u00e9 par Wilfried Valat, un oenologue qui fit ses classes en Bourgogne (mais aussi \u00e0 Bordeaux). C’est un domaine juch\u00e9 sur le col de la Done, comme son nom l’indique, et dont l’objectif a \u00e9t\u00e9 de mettre en pratique sa vision des terroir de l’Agly. Pour plus de d\u00e9tail, je vous r\u00e9f\u00e8re au site<\/a> qui donne une image tr\u00e8s juste des vins et du style.<\/p>\n

Ce que j’ai vu dans ses vins, c’est effectivement une approche neuve et fra\u00eeche de ces terroirs. C’est aussi une vision intelligente, qui sait appliquer une pr\u00e9cision bourguignonne \u00e0 ses vins. Il ne semble pas d’ailleurs absurde de retrouver un sorte de \u00ab\u00a0style\u00a0\u00bb rappelant cette r\u00e9gion dans Mustango.<\/strong><\/em> La d\u00e9gustation en parall\u00e8le d’autres Grenache Gris-Maccabeu de la r\u00e9gion est \u00e9loquente en la mati\u00e8re (par exemple Na\u00efck 009 de l’Oustal Blanc ou l’Effront\u00e9e du Domaine de V\u00e9nus).<\/p>\n

Mustango 2009<\/strong><\/em> c’est un vin assez unique avec un Grenache (gris ou blanc) \u00e0 40%, \u00e9paul\u00e9 de Carignan Blanc \u00e0 40% et de Maccabeu \u00e0 20%. Ce vin dans sa version 2010<\/strong> est par contre un 100% Grenache. Il est encore jeune et un peu ferm\u00e9 et se comporte mieux apr\u00e8s un carafage d’environ une heure. A l’ouverture, le nez est discret, l\u00e9g\u00e8rement grill\u00e9 et \u00e9pic\u00e9. L’a\u00e9ration va lib\u00e9rer les ar\u00f4mes que l’on attend d’un Grenache : riche, sur le fruit blanc et la fleur et une touche empyreumatique. En bouche, c’est d’abord la structure et la min\u00e9ralit\u00e9 du vin qui marque. Une vraie min\u00e9ralit\u00e9, pas une simple fraicheur. La longueur est superbe et s’\u00e9tire sur plusieurs secondes. Avec l’oxyg\u00e9nation, le vin perd un tout petit peu en \u00e9l\u00e9gance mais gagne en gras, c’est l’effet d’une oxyg\u00e9nation rapide, un peu forc\u00e9e, que l’on obtient en carafant.<\/p>\n

Aucune crainte quant \u00e0 l’\u00e9volution, le vin ne pr\u00e9sente aucune trace d’oxydation et sa fermeture aromatique laisse penser qu’il s’exprimera mieux dans un an ou deux, on devrait alors se trouver devant un vin avec l’ouverture aromatique d’une heure de carafe mais sans les d\u00e9fauts. Il est assur\u00e9ment taill\u00e9 pour s’exprimer au mieux entre 3 et 7 ans \u00e0 compter de sa date de naissance.<\/p>\n

En somme, une bouteille magnifique que je ne peux m’emp\u00eacher de rapprocher d’un vin septentrional pour son \u00e9quilibre, un peu \u00e0 la fa\u00e7on d’un Chablis GC. Aucun exc\u00e8s de maturit\u00e9, de gras, d’alcool, c’est un vin limpide, facile et \u00e9l\u00e9gant. Tr\u00e8s loin de bombes (qui sont tr\u00e8s bonnes aussi) que peut parfois livrer le Roussillon, il donne une interpr\u00e9tation pertinente et qualitative de ce terroir. Pour ceux qui conna\u00eetraient d’autre vins \u00e0 dominante de Grenache, comme l’Effront\u00e9e du Domaine de V\u00e9nus <\/em>ou <\/span>Vieilles Vignes blanc du Clos des F\u00e9es<\/em>, nous sommes ici sur un style diam\u00e9tralement oppos\u00e9, beaucoup moins opulent, beaucoup moins \u00e9lev\u00e9. Produit \u00e0 hauteur de 900 bouteilles par an, il n’y en aura pas pour tout le monde !<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

La note Wineops : 86\/100<\/span> ; 5 +<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\n<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La Nouvelle Don(n)e a \u00e9t\u00e9 fond\u00e9 par Wilfried Valat, un oenologue qui fit ses classes en Bourgogne (mais aussi \u00e0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1048,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[13,100,347,75],"tags":[345,346,348],"yoast_head":"\nMustango 2009 by La Nouvelle Don(n)e (France, Roussillon) - Wineops<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1044\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Mustango 2009 by La Nouvelle Don(n)e (France, Roussillon) - Wineops\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La Nouvelle Don(n)e a \u00e9t\u00e9 fond\u00e9 par Wilfried Valat, un oenologue qui fit ses classes en Bourgogne (mais aussi \u00e0\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1044\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Wineops\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2011-03-08T08:37:26+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/03\/img_2707.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2048\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1536\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"wineops\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"wineops\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1044\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.wineops.fi\/?p=1044\",\"name\":\"Mustango 2009 by La Nouvelle Don(n)e (France, Roussillon) - 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