Wine: Terrers, Brut Nature Gran Reserva
Grape: Xarel-lo (46%), Macabeu (40%), Parellada (14%)
Origin: Spain, Catalonia, Cava
Price: 30,30€ (Finland, Alko, 06/2015) – around 16€ from the estate.
First, let’s speak about Cava. What is Cava? It is a sparkling wine made in the exact same way than Champagne. The grapes used for Cava, from the most planted to the least, are in white: Macabeu, Xarel-lo, Parellada, Chardonnay and in red: Garnacha and Pinot Noir, completed with many other grapes like Monastrell. There is 244 producers of Cava and about 250 million bottles produced each year. In comparison, Champagne has 300 « maisons de champagne » and around 5000 independent producers. Each year over 300 million bottles are put on the market. The number of independent is indeed much higher in Champagne. Or, conversely, Cava is much more concentrated. Another difference is the price of the fruit. In Champagne, it is sold between 8 and 9€ the kilo (1,2 kilo is required to make one bottle), whereas it is 60¢ for the best fruits in the region of Cava. That, alone, explains the price difference between a bottle of Champagne and a bottle of Cava. Needless to speak about the difference of fame between both regions.
Recaredo is a very special estate in the world of Cava. Recaredo is biodynamic (and, as far as I know, they are the only one). They produce only Brut Nature (which means that there is no added sugar, no « dosage »). For a few years, they have taken away Chadonnay and Pinot Noir from their blends, sticking to the local Xarel-lo, Macabeu, Parellada, Garnacha and Monastrell. They are an independent family owned estate who owns around 50 ha, 23 of them being one single plot in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. In addition to paying a lot of attention to wine growing, their wines are aged a very long time, in most cases more than 48 months. Their style is powerful and yet cristal clear wines. One can finally add that they also produce still wines under the name Celler Credo.
Over the past months, I have been tasting many times the wine I am going to comment : Recaredo, Terres Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2008. The name means « terroirs » in French. It is a blend of different plots of the estate and I would say it is their signature wine. The wine is disgorged according to the needs. The last batch has been disgorged in January 2015, after a stunning 70 month of ageing on lees. 5 years and 10 month… this is truly impressive. Note finally that all of the information are written on the label, which is a really great thing to do (and something every single producer should do).
A few month ago, I have tasted for the first time this wine. It was still very tight, not very expressive and quite mineral. It was a few month ago but it also was the previous lot, disgorged in November 2014 at 68 months. Two more months on lees have made quite a difference. Is it the only reasons for it? I don’t know, but it is the most obvious.
The color is light golden. Bubble are plentiful, extremely thin and last long. The nose is first slightly toasted, something I connect to Macabeu. Then it develops in a very rich and complex way on flowers and a hint of fruit. A bouquet of garrigue, wild flowers, jasmin and apricot. The mouth is generous and the absence of dosage is nowhere to be noticed. Intense and expressive, stone fruits and still a nutty note brought by Macabeu. The finish is very long, on sweet spices. Very developed, very impressive. It is an outstanding wine.
Wineops’ rating : 90/100 ; + 5
Generosity and pure joy. This wine is expressive, elegant and yet absolutely self-evident. A must drink that can still age for many years in your cellar.